Coastline Pilot - April 15, 2005
"Experience a little island time close to home"
CATHARINE COOPER
"Island time," crows James, from the patio of Two Harbors Bar
and Restaurant, as he kicks down a "Buffalo Milk" -- the
signature drink of this Catalina establishment -- and relaxes
with his wife, Lynn. Six of us, including Emma, Mike, Steve
and I, chatter about our weekend getaway, while we wait for
the Catalina Express to ferry us back to the mainland. It's hard
to argue James' proclamation as we watch palms and colorful
flowers sway in a warm and gentle breeze. The slopes of the
island are covered in a deep emerald green, more like tropical
locations such as Hawaii, than this historically brown desert
island.
Millions of years ago, Catalina was formed by volcanic activity beneath the ocean floor that
created a rugged, barren piece of land surrounded by the Pacific. Early colonizers arrived by
chance, blown by the wind or drifted to shore on small waves. Today, the craggy mountains,
shallow valleys and steep cliff faces are home to a unique variety of native trees, shrubs,
wildflowers, mammals, insects, birds and other forms of life.
The trip, which began on a dinner whim,
manifested into a richly rewarding closeto-
home vacation. Thanks to the Internet
for its rapid dispensing of information, and
Lynn's focused follow-through,
reservations for both transport to and
from, as well as campsites while there,
were secured.
An early boarding at San Pedro (the only
direct ferry to the isthmus) set the stage.
We breakfasted on James' famous raspberry-orange scones, freshly baked the night before, and sipped hot coffee. Mike organized luggage and secured our place in line.
The trip over was a bit more than we bargained for: six to seven foot seas and waves broke over the top of Catalina Express. While most passengers fled for cover, I relished the opportunity to be with the elements. Wind whipped my face, water splashed my body, and my laughter was infectious. An accompanying deck passenger remarked that I was having "too much fun." I agreed.
There are five campgrounds on Catalina Island. Each has a unique location, different facilities and transportation logistics. Two Harbors, our selected one night "home," sits on a bluff overlooking the harbor at Isthmus Cove. It's a short ¼-mile walk from the pier, and if desired, the ranger will deliver your gear to your campsite. There is running water, rinse-off showers, chemical toilets, barbecues, picnic tables, fire pits and sunshade. Rangers will sell and deliver propane (not allowed on the ferry), charcoal and firewood. Town offers a restaurant and bar, general store, snack bar, coin-op hot showers and a rental shop for kayaks, bicycles and snorkeling gear.
After setting up camp on Saturday, wandering was the call for the afternoon. Steve and I ventured north, following West End Road along the shoreline to visit Cherry and Fourth of July coves. The bulk of the moorings were empty, as was the town, on this early April weekend. The quiet was a welcome respite from the construction commotion in Laguna. We finished our exploration by hiking to the west side of the island. There, a viewpoint bench provides a spectacular vista. San Clemente Island loomed huge on the horizon.
Sunday morning, after a hearty breakfast in town, we purchased return bus tickets, and set off for Little Harbor, a hike of about 6 ½ miles. Climbing away from Isthmus Cove on the Banning Trail, the town grew ever smaller while the green of the hills laid out before us like a welcome carpet. Wildflowers continued their bloom -- Indian paintbrush, mariposa daisies, coreopsus, lupine and more. Bees plied their trade while mockingbirds, wrens, sparrows and jays flittered from tree to tree. I searched fruitlessly for buffalo and Catalina fox.
On top of the ridge, a vigorous climb, we were rewarded with a view to the north end of the island, wrapped on both sides by the blue of the Pacific. Two lakes, certainly a surprise to me, filled in narrow valleys as we headed down the mountain toward Little Harbor.
As soon as we arrived on the beach, boots came off, lunch came out and we settled to the peaceful rhythm of the surf. A serious hunt for sea glass and cast off treasures yielded plenty of bounty -- gold-like stones shimmered like coins in the wet sand and teased us with dreams of excess. On the bus ride back (recommended) we finally spotted a lone buffalo chewing tall grass near a deep pond.
The horn from the ferry shakes us from our reverie. We grab our packs and lineup for boarding. The return journey is via Avalon, which means we are treated to a sunset cruise along the island's length. Green cliff faces, tiny coves and bobbing sailboats fill the picture.
As we turn toward the lights of the mainland, hundreds of dolphin from all compass points, arc and dive, swimming toward our ship. The gold orb of sunlight settles into the sea, just before we cross the breakwater.
Island time, for sure.
* CATHARINE COOPER can be reached at 949-497-5081 or ccooper@cooperdesign.net.
